Construction of Control Panels at "Kalrail"
Rick Fletcher - NSW Australia
Updated 8 April 2016

This is the method I use for control panels on my HO Australian (NSW) railway layout.
Like most things on my layout, I try to find an easy way to do things by using materials readily obtained. The panels shown below are paving the way.
This is an operating panel for "loco" on my layout. The SPDT switches control the points (US - switches, turnouts) and indicate which track is powered by a 3mm Green LED. The next panel to the right operates the turntable (below).

These panels are constructed using 3mm black acrylic plastic sheet (purchased as a pack of A4 size sheets on eBay). The panels are held in photo frames. These were a cheap 16 x 11 cm frame from a "discount" shop and were supposedly a standard item - not so ... subsequent ones were different design, size and colour! The next photos show how the panels were mounted to the fascia using 2 simple wooden, angled holders.




Size "A" above is the same size as the internal height of the picture frame and needs to be a tight fit. The 2 wooden holders need to be spaced such that are a tight fit to the internal width of the frame.


This is a panel under construction for the "yard". This time the picture frame was an MDF cheapy. I prefer the moulded plastic ones. It looks OK when assembled (below).



And shown above mounted to the layout fascia. Switches and LEDs still to be added. The point lever to the right controls crossover points on the mainlines to the rear using wire in tube (in this case bicycle gear tubing). The manual point operation is more prototypical for 1950s operation but I will probably convert them to servo operation.

PRODUCING THE TRACK DIAGRAM

Firstly I produce a really rough pencil sketch to replicate the physical track layout, in this case, in the yard. The point numbers need to be allocated and recorded as I am using MERG designs developed in the UK.
Their aim is "to actively promote and advance the use of electronic and computer technology for model railway operation". In essence I am using their CANBUS model with a variety of modules connected to that BUS, a sort of fly-by-wire. For a detailed explanation - see the MERG website.


The reverse side of the acrylic sheet is shown below. The front side is plain brown self adhesive paper and makes a suitable surface to draw a pencil diagram following the design sketch but drawn accurately using basic drafting techniques (mostly a 45° set square!). Using a soft pencil you can easily make corrections to the diagram. I use a line width of 4mm. [unfortunately I forgot to photograph this stage but I will update this section when I make the next board - PHOTO description now follows].

New panel under construction - having marked it out and checked it, I carefully cut along the lines, missing the gaps with a very sharp (new) Exacto blade. Just deep enough to cut through the paper. Check that the cuts meet precisely! No gaps. When everything is cut, peel the 4mm strips slowly from the acrylic sheet.
You are left with most of the paper still there and some black 4mm strips where the tracks go. The next step is to spray paint the whole panel with a rattle can. I used a satin white enamel with about 3 light misting coats. When touch dry, peel off the remaining paper to leave your track diagram.

You are left with most of the paper still there and some black 4mm strips where the tracks go. The next step is to spray paint the whole panel with a rattle can. I used a satin white enamel with about 3 light misting coats. When touch dry, peel off the remaining paper to leave your track diagram.
One little patch-up was needed on the example below - the knife slipped and I covered the mistake with a sliver of blue painters tape.

I use a satin white rattle can in my home made spray booth (based on a kitchen exhaust fan)

Multiple light spray passes with satin white - leave to dry for 20 minutes and multiples passes again

Careful peeling of the self adhesive backing.

The panel is trial fitted to the frame and is yet to have switches, LEDs and labels added. There is a little cleaning up needed with a fine toothpick.

The whole process took less than a day. The slowest part is waiting for the paint to properly dry.